Gor Khatri

Western Gate of Gor Khatri Complex, Peshawar

Gor Khatri is a significant archaeological complex located within the old city area of Peshawar. Accessible via Chowk Yadgar and situated near the historic Sethi Muhalla, the complex sits atop an ancient cultural mound and marks one of the highest spots in the city. The site reflects multiple layers of Peshawar’s historical, cultural, and religious past, encapsulating a continuum of civilizations that once occupied the region.
The name “Gor Khatri” or “Gor Khutree” literally means “Warrior’s Grave.” The earliest recorded account of the site comes from Emperor Babur, who visited the area and mentioned it in his memoirs, Baburnama. According to I.H. Nadeem, Babur found a large quantity of hair at the temple located here, suggesting that Hindus visited the site to perform Shraddha, or funeral offerings in honor of their ancestors. Another interpretation holds that the site once served as a monastic retreat where Buddhist monks or jogis cut their hair as part of their spiritual initiation. Emperor Akbar and Jahangir also described the location as a gathering place for jogis and a site of Hindu pilgrimage.
The site gained further architectural significance during the Mughal period. In 1641, Jahan Ara Begum, daughter of Emperor Shah Jahan, transformed Gor Khatri into a serai, a caravan inn for travelers, particularly those arriving from Central Asia. The serai, named Jahanabad, featured a large Char Bagh (four-part garden) with cells constructed around it to house visitors. Jahan Ara also commissioned the construction of a mosque and a hammam at the site, reinforcing its function as a well-facilitated resting station. While many original cells were replaced in later years, this serai was among several built during the Mughal, Durrani, and Sikh eras, including Sarai Mahabbat, Sarai Chonkidar, and Sarai Suleman. Of these, the Gor Khatri serai is the largest and still survives. These caravanserais not only served travelers but also facilitated trade and cultural exchange.

A local legend identifies Gor Khatri as the famed “tower of Buddha’s bowl,” believed to have housed the sacred begging bowl of Lord Gautama Buddha. The location served as a Buddhist pilgrimage site before being taken over by Hindus in the post-Buddhist period, from the 5th century CE onwards. The Shiva temple within the complex was later constructed in honor of the Hindu saint Gorakhnath, who is said to have migrated from Kashmir to Sheikhupura and eventually settled in Peshawar. During Sikh rule, the earlier Shahi Mosque built by Jahan Ara was demolished and replaced by this temple between 1834 and 1849. Frescoes within the temple remain visible to this day.
In 1818, the Sikhs occupied Peshawar and after a period of conflict, fully consolidated their control by 1838. During the Sikh period, sections of the serai were damaged. The Sikhs established the temple of Gorakhnath at the site and also used the location for administrative purposes. From 1838 to 1842, Gor Khatri served as the headquarters and residence of the Sikh Governor General Paolo Avitabile. A commemorative plaque at the site marks his tenure. Avitabile constructed a pavilion over the western gateway, from where he would hear public petitions.
Under British colonial administration, the function of Gor Khatri shifted again. The site became the headquarters of the City Police and Fire Brigade. Fire engines manufactured by Merryweather London in 1919 and 1921 were stationed there and still remain on display. One of these vehicles is marked with the label “1912 British-era Municipal Committee Peshawar Fire Brigade.” These engines are considered among the oldest surviving examples of their kind and have been restored by the Department of Archaeology and Museums, Government of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa.

Archaeological interest in Gor Khatri developed over time, with notable excavations conducted to understand the historical stratigraphy of Peshawar. In the 1990s, Professor F.A. Durrani of the University of Peshawar led the first formal excavations, continuing into 2000. This was followed by further work in 2002 by Professor Ishan Ali. Their research revealed that Peshawar is among the oldest continuously inhabited urban centers in the Indian subcontinent. Excavations unearthed multiple cultural layers, the oldest of which date back to the Achaemenian Period. Layers above that correspond to the Mauryan era, particularly the reign of Emperor Ashoka and his successors.
A significant number of coins were recovered from the site, including those from the Indo-Greek period, dating back to the era of Demetrius (circa 200 BCE). Other artifacts found include terracotta female figurines known as "Baroque Ladies" from the Scytho-Parthian period, masonry walls, stone sculpture fragments, oil lamps, pitchers, vases, jars, and figurines of both humans and animals. Coins and objects from the Hindu Shahi period were also found, which, according to I.H. Nadeem, underline Peshawar’s importance under Hindu Shahi rule.

The complex continues to be a site of cultural preservation. In 2006, the Directorate of Archaeology and Museums, Government of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, established the City Museum at Gor Khatri. The museum displays a collection of excavated materials from the site and serves as an educational resource for understanding the historical evolution of the city.
Ahmad Hasan Dani suggested that the site may have been the location of the famous Buddha's begging bowl mentioned by the Chinese pilgrim Hiuen Tsang during his visit to Peshawar in the 7th century AD. This scholarly view aligns with the broader narrative of the site’s layered spiritual and political history. Today, Gor Khatri is officially protected under the Antiquities Act of 1975 and stands as a living archive of Peshawar’s deep-rooted historical and cultural past. The old serai’s cells have now been reinforced with aluminum doorways and assigned to craftsmen to produce and sell traditional artefacts, continuing a legacy of cultural continuity within its historic walls.