Sethi Mohallah

View of Narrow Lane in Sethi Muhalla

Ornamental Woodwork on Sethi Haveli Facade

Sethi Muhalla is located within the Walled City of Peshawar, along Bazar-e-Kalan Road. It lies between two significant landmarks: Cunningham Clock Tower to the west and the Gor Khatri archaeological complex to the east, forming part of the Cultural Heritage Trail. The muhalla consists of a cluster of historic houses and a mosque belonging to the Sethi family, a prominent merchant community of Peshawar. These houses, constructed primarily in the 18th and 19th centuries, reflect the wealth, taste, and transregional connections of the Sethi family.

The Sethi family migrated from Chamkani approximately six generations ago and quickly established themselves as a major business community in Peshawar. The name “Sethi” is derived from the Sanskrit word Sreshthin, historically denoting the head of a business class. Using Peshawar as their trading base, the Sethis built an expansive commercial network that connected the Indian Subcontinent with Afghanistan, Iran, Central Asia, Russia, and China. They conducted international trade and maintained offices in cities across these regions. According to Ahmad Hassan Dani, the Sethi family also issued hundis for financial exchange in Afghanistan, particularly for British employees. Their success in trade is reflected in the grandeur and scale of the havelis they constructed in their neighbourhood.

Interior Balcony Detail of a Sethi Haveli

Decorative Latticework in Sethi Muhalla

From 1800 to 1910, the Sethis built around twelve havelis in the muhalla, ranging from smaller residences to large, architecturally sophisticated complexes. These include Muhammad Akram House, Karam Buksh Sethi Haveli, Fateh Gul Sethi Haveli, Ahmad Gul Sethi Haveli, Elahi Buksh Sethi Haveli, Haji Saeed Ahmed Sethi Haveli, Karim Buksh Sethi Haveli, Abdur Rahim Sethi Haveli, the Haveli of Fateh Gul’s Grandson, Abdur Karim Sethi Haveli, Fateh Gul Family Haveli, and the Abdul Jalil Sethi Haveli. A covered bridge within the muhalla connects two of these residences, providing discreet passage between buildings and reflecting a common architectural feature of elite urban households.

The earliest surviving haveli is the Karam Buksh Sethi Haveli, built in 1808, followed by the Fateh Gul Sethi Haveli, constructed in 1818. These structures functioned as both residential homes and spaces for commercial dealings. The second major phase of construction took place during the 1820s to 1840s, with the development of the Ahmad Gul and Elahi Buksh Sethi havelis. A third phase occurred between 1880 and 1900, during which the Karim Buksh Sethi and Abdur Rahim Sethi havelis were constructed.

Among these, the most iconic is the Karim Buksh Sethi Haveli, built in 1898. It was the largest haveli in the muhalla, and possibly the city at the time. It was composed of three distinct functional areas: a zenana-khana (women’s quarters), a daftar-khana (office space), and a mehman-khana (guest area). The house originally featured separate courtyards for men and women, with the zenana eventually converted into an independent haveli by Allah Buksh Sethi in 1930. The Abdul Jalil Sethi Haveli, constructed between 1902 and 1908, was the last major residence to be built in the muhalla. It faced Bazar-e-Kalan and had rear connections to adjoining family havelis inside the Sethi kucha.

The Sethi Muhalla is also home to a mosque constructed by Karim Buksh Sethi, which served as the religious center for the family and community. The havelis themselves are celebrated for their intricate woodwork, elaborate carvings, and architectural fusion of Central Asian, Persian, Kashmiri, and Indo-Subcontinental styles. One of the finest examples in the muhalla was constructed by Haji Ahmad Gul, and all structures collectively reflect the prosperity, cultural depth, and international ties of the Sethi family.

Today, the Sethi House functions as a museum and heritage site. It is managed by the Directorate of Archaeology and Museums, Government of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. Samra Khan has conducted detailed research and documentation on the architectural and historical significance of the Sethi Muhalla, ensuring that the legacy of this merchant neighborhood remains preserved for future generations.